This is the French beachy that you see in surfing magazines and dream about going to. Whether the swell is big, small or huge, you're going to get some barrels here. We surfed it for about a week non-stop. At times, it was a bit straight (close outs), but there were a few days where it was absoloutely grinding - long barrels about 4-6ft.....some of the best beachies of my life. But still nonetheless, a beachy. Check out my picture from November. Beautiful isn't it?
Whoooooo, this is one of the best waves I`ve ever seen. If it is offshore with a decent swell it is pumping with big hollow barreling rights, and a slower, mellower but BIG lefthander. Watch out for the crowds though, who are generally nice, but there are however some asses as well. This wave works up to 10-12 feet, and is always bigger than the rest of the coastline.
I've been here a few times now and still think it's great. I used the rip by the groin to get out a few times and have seen some nutters jumping off the end when its big. Mid tide seemed to be best but the shorebreak is a neck snapper so best left to the spongers/loonys.
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